Today’s Author
Name
Max N
Current Location
Central London
Drink of Choice
Dry Gin Martini with a twist, shaken obviously
Favourite Film
Wicked
Where Other Members Can Find You
Dover Street Counter
Happy 80th Birthday to J M Weston’s 180 Loafer
Listen, we’ve all been there. You want a shoe that says, ‘I’ve arrived’, but you don’t want to look like you’re trying too hard. You need something that commands a boardroom on Monday but doesn’t look terrified of a spilt Guinness at the Walmer Castle on Sunday: enter the J M Weston 180 Loafer. 2026 marks a proper milestone; it’s the shoe’s 80th birthday, not bad for a design that hasn’t changed since the days of ration books.
A Bit of History
While the name sounds like a posh firm of solicitors from Russell Square, J M Weston is actually far more French than Marie Antoinette ever was. Founded in Limoges in 1891, the brand’s name comes from when the founder’s son, Eugène, went to Weston, Massachusetts, to learn the secrets of American Goodyear welting. The 180 itself was launched in 1946, but it didn’t become a ‘thing’ until the 1960s. Back then, the cool kids in Paris, the ‘Bande du Drugstore’, started wearing them without socks (quelle horreur!) and pairing them with jeans. It was the ultimate middle finger to the stiff class rules of the time. During the 1968 student riots, you’d find students manning the barricades in these loafers. If they can survive a bourgeois revolution and eight decades of shifting trends, they can handle your morning commute and dog walks in the park.
Why They’re Arguably the Best in the World
I’m not just blowing smoke here; these shoes are really built like tanks. They aren’t called the 180 just for fun. Each pair goes through roughly 180 manual operations in their Limoges workshop; they are the only shoemaker in the world that owns its own sole leather tannery, which uses an extra-slow vegetable tanning process that takes a full year. The result? A leather sole so tough you could practically hike in it. Plus, they offer an absurd range of widths (from A to F), most brands give you one or two; Weston ensures the shoe truly fits your foot.
The Magic of the Goodyear Welt
The secret to the 180s ‘ immortality is the Goodyear welt construction. Unlike cheap shoes that are just glued together and tossed when the sole wears thin, the 180 uses a strip of leather (the welt) that is stitched to both the upper and the insole. The sole is then stitched directly to that welt. This means the shoes are re-solable almost infinitely. When you’ve marched through enough London rain to wear down the leather, you don’t bin them, but send them back to the factory in Limoges. There, they pull the old sole off, put the upper back on the original wooden lasts to restore the shape, and stitch on a brand-new sole. It’s the ultimate “buy once, cry once” investment.
A Rite of Passage (Or: How I Was Conned)
Now, let’s talk about the break-in period. It is famously…well, character-building, Weston leather doesn’t give up without a fight, it’s stiff and notoriously stubborn. I remember my dad “generously” lending me his Westons for school when I was a teenager. I thought I was the business, strutting around the school halls in these expensive, French loafers, but it wasn’t until years later that I realised the cruel truth…I was being a human shoe-stretcher! He wasn’t doing me a favour; he was using my youthful energy to break in the stiff leather so he wouldn’t have to suffer the blisters himself. If your dad offers you a loaner pair this year, check the fit. You might just be unpaid labour for his 80th anniversary pair!
For the Gents and the Ladies
One of the best things about the 180 is that they make the same shoe for both women and men, maintaining the exact same construction standards for both. Meaning girls, you can buy your boyfriend, husband, fiancé a matching pair, just…well…because! For the ladies, it’s the perfect way to nail that ‘French Girl’ aesthetic, think oversized blazers (from Atelier Calico, obvs), and cropped trousers. For the men, it’s the definitive preppy staple. Whether you want them in the classic black boxcalf, a rich burgundy, or a green suede, they look spectacular on everyone.
The Verdict
Yes, they’re a bit of an investment. You’ll likely wince at the price tag initially, and as I learned the hard way, you might need a teenager to do the heavy lifting for the first few weeks. But once they mould to your feet, you’re set for life.
To celebrate the 80th anniversary this year, Weston has even been releasing some special two-tone editions. It’s a rare bit of permanence in a world of disposable fashion. A lasting real staple for your wardrobe. (You even might be able to convince your boss that that 2-hour lunch break was because you were feeling ‘French’ today.)
